That was interesting. All the discussion about swatching. Funny, I get oodles of comments from people who swear by swatching, or a few comments from people who admit that they don't swatch but say when their sweaters don't fit they understand that they varied from the gauge. Yet, on a particular forum there must be several hundred knitters cheerfully shouting that they never do a gauge swatch.
Not that this particular slice of the knitting community really represents the average sweater knitter, that's for sure, but come on! Don't brag about it!
Which brings me to the Subject of Ease.
I'm no expert, shoot, I've only been knitting for about six years, but the people who sew garments out of cloth probably have way more to say about the subject of ease than I do. Knits are meant to stretch, so when we discuss ease, or at least to my mind, we are talking about "fit," or "drape," and not necessarily the amount of extra space one would need in order to lift their arms or squat without splitting a seam or something.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. This is just a blog post.
What I want to say about ease and to answer many requests from knitters who want me to list ease on my patterns, like the model's size and the amount of ease that is shown on the garment the model is wearing is, sorry. No can do. At least not in the way you want me to. Because, if I did, next thing I know, the doorbell would ring and 16,000 knitters would be out there, waving lit torches at me and threatening to take Girlfriend away to a commune or worse, a particular yarn store I know that has every single skein of yarn sealed in plastic bags.
The only possible way to produce such a measurement or whatever you call it, would be to design and knit for a particular person. A particular person who meets the exact criteria of, say, some set of guidelines (like a "Yarn Council," for example) and who has the exact measurements of a size "medium," and that means she must also have a set of arms with an exact Standard measurement, a back waist measurement that is exactly "to code," and all the other nonsense that goes along with it. Then, you'd have to measure the amount of ease you want for each part of the garment, the bust, which is obvious, and then know that because this particular "perfect-to Blah Blah Yarn Council Standards" model will represent the tunic as a tunic length because a tunic length is exactly 6 or more inches longer than her back waist measurement.
But it gets even worse: When one writes a book, she does not know who the models will be. She does not know their sizes. She does not know if they are exact replicas of, say, size "medium" on the Blah Blah Yarn Council Standard sizes in every way imaginable. (Remember: We designers are strongly encouraged to design to Yarn Standard Council "code.")
So when it comes time to shoot the pics for a book, we have to try to represent the sweaters as they are meant to fit. That means sometimes one needs to pin something together here or there. BUT, a good stylist (and having the designer on set helps) will be sure not to create shaping where there is none, i.e., a boxy sweater that suddenly becomes a spray-painted-on spandex suit.
This is what I say about ease: Look at the schematic. That is your only clue that will not mislead you. Know your measurements. Know how you like things to fit. I can agree that a designer can suggest a certain amount of negative or positive ease; that might help. But to say that the model is a certain size and that the sweater is a certain size and that there is negative ease here but positive ease there would create even worse confusion.
If I told you how many emails I have received with questions about bra-band sizing and how they relate to the size of the sweater you'd be astounded. I do not design bras. I can only wonder what would happen if I start saying: "Model in picture has a 36-inch bust and 28-inch waist. Her lovely hips are a waif-like 34. This pattern is knit with 1-inch negative ease in the bust, none in the waist, and negative 2 inches in the hips! Happy Knitting!"
You cannot tell how a sweater will fit you based on a picture, even with explicit ease measurements. No way.
Imagine if you have an apple-shaped body and have a chest circumference of 40 inches, AND 2 inches negative ease in the chest area is suggested. Unless you pay careful attention, you'll end up with a lovely fitted sweater on the top half of your body. Your bottom half, well, let's just say that you'll be able to see the outlines of your belly button. For what it's worth, the Yarn Council Standards say that a person with a size 40 chest has 32 - 34-inch waist and 42 - 44-inch hips. Those of you who have a 40-inch chest, I dare you to go measure your waist and your hips. I will put money on it that many of you will not be to "Standard."
I wonder if it would be helpful to create some sort of "cheat sheet" for knitters. You know, the kind where you plug in your measurements, the amount of looseness you want here or there and then the measurements from a schematic to see where you will need to customize. Hmmmm.
What we did this weekend: